Assignment Sample on How are people embracing their culture through fashion
Chapter 1 – Introduction
Background
Fashion has been a crucial part of the culture of the United Kingdoms, as it reflects the social, economic and political circumstances of the society in the UK particularly. The fashion culture of the country has been constantly changing and repetitive with designers drawing inspiration from past designs, art and architecture (FutureLearn, 2021). The fashion industry in the UK has a long and rich history since the 1800s with London being one of the world’s fashion capital (Phizacklea, 2023). According Pouillard, (2022), London has been identified as the World fashion centre because of certain factors such as fashion schools, shopping in London, the London fashion week and the history of Royal Fashion. Although this history also includes some issues and complexities particularly dedicated to discrimination.
Historically certain clothing styles have been related with certain social groups or ethnicities in the UK. For example, in the 1970s, the anarchy in the UK or the punk culture gave rise to the distinctive fashion style. However, the punk look was stigmatized by the society and often associated with rebellion, it started a wave of stigmatizing or discriminating on the basis of fashion (Guerra & Figueredo, 2019).
However, in the recent years, the shift in the cultural significance of certain clothing styles in the United Kingdom has been seen. What was considered as discriminatory and stigmatizing is now considered as a visible expression of social identity. Many people have started to perceive fashion as a way to describe their social identity (CustomWritten, 2021).
Figure 1: The influence of personal and social identity on the clothing consumption of adolescents, 2016
(Source: Wiley Online Library, 2016)
Over the past few years, the UK has observed a significant popularity of traditional African fabrics such as the Kente and wax prints (Fashion United, 2021). These were earlier associated and stigmatized with African migrants, now these fabrics have changed into being widely accepted by the society with fashion designers embracing them as a visible expression of the African culture (Halls & Martino, 2018).
In the light of these changes in the UK fashion culture, this research will aim to explore the factors that contribute to the shift in fashion culture in the UK, specifically with regards to the certain forms of clothing being seen as discriminatory to becoming a visible representation of social identity. This research will aim to understand more about the role of fashion in cultural identity and social inclusion and the potential of fashion to challenge societal norms and prejudices.
Research aim, question and objectives
Research Aim – To identify and investigate the factors which have led to the transformation of the UK fashion from being discriminatory to being a visible expression of social identity and how UK has been embracing its culture through fashion.
Research question – What factors have contributed to the shift in the cultural significance of certain clothing styles in the UK, from being associated with discrimination to becoming a visible expression of social identity, and how are people embracing their culture through fashion now?
Research Objectives –
- To identify and investigate the factors that have contributed to the stigmatization of certain clothing styles in the UK, and how these have influenced perceptions of social identity.
- To explore the role of fashion in promoting cultural identity and social inclusion.
- To explore ways how countries like UK have been embracing their culture through fashion.
- To recommend solutions to the challenges faced by the fashion industry in embracing culture and promote social identity through fashion.
Rationale
Fashion has been a critical aspect of every culture and serves as a mean of expression and reflects different circumstances (Kaiser & Green, 2021). However, fashion often is perceived as a form of discrimination especially in the UK with a rich history of fashion, with London being a world centre for fashion (Loscialpo, 2020). These challenges developed because of certain clothing styles were associated with certain ethnicities and social groups (Barry, 2018). This led to the negative stereotyping and stigmatization against individuals who wore theses specific style (Arthur, 2020).
However, the recent years have seen a cultural shift in UK with fashion being used as a representative of social identity rather than being considered as a discriminatory and stigmatizing (BBC, 2020). This has been playing a crucial role in promoting acceptance, inclusivity and diversity in the country.
Therefore, this research aims to explore the factors which have contributed to the shift in fashion culture in UK. By identifying and investigating the factors influencing the shift from discriminatory to form of expression of social identity, this study aims to provide insights in the role of fashion in promoting social identify and cultural inclusion. Moreover, the case study of UK is taken because of the huge and rich history of UK’s fashion industry and culture changes. This research will explore how UK have been embracing fashion to embrace culture by highlighting the challenges and opportunities to promote social identity. The study will also provide recommendations for addressing the issues faced by UK’s fashion industry in embracing culture through promoting social identity through fashion.
Chapter 2 – Literature Review
Clothing and fashion play a significant role in the expression and construction of social identities (Back, 2020). In many countries, certain clothing style have been stigmatized or slurred and associated with certain societal groups, communities and also religions, leading to negative discrimination and perceptions (Gordillo-Rodriguez & Sanz-Marcos, 2020). However, in the recent times with the countries like UK have experienced a shift in the fashion culture from being a discriminatory and stigmatized culture to a fashion culture for social identity (Goworek et. al. 2020).
One of the significant factors identified by Akdemir, (2018), contributing to the stigmatization of clothing style is the association of the clothing styles with certain minority and marginalised groups. For instance, wearing hoodies and other accessories have been perceived as a symbol of criminal and gang activities. This creates a negative perception in the minds of young people, watching discrimination to be because of fashion (May, 2018). These stereotypes have been contributing to the stigmatization of clothing styles as well as the individuals who wear them leading to discrimination (Aagerup, 2018). On the contrary, West & Iyengar, (2022) argued that this discrimination resulted in individuals taking help of fashion to embrace their culture and expressing their social identity.
According to the social identity theory, the significance of social identity greatly manipulates the behaviour, attitudes and perception of the individuals (Davis et. al. 2019). However, Harwood, (2020) identified that individuals feel strong ties with a group with whom they share similar characteristics with. Moreover, the affiliation and recognition from the group helps them to build their social identity (Scheepers & Ellemers, 2019). Similarly, the anarchy in the UK also resulted in similar situation where individuals felt connected with the punk lifestyle and got emotionally connected with their social group (Weiner, 2018). This gave a rise of using fashion as a way of expressing their social identity.
However, Slater & Demangeot, (2021) identified media representation as another factor which played a significant role in stigmatisation of certain clothing styles, particularly in the UK. According to Jansen, (2020), media coverage, news reports and others associate certain fashion with a particularly group of people. This association is often negative and leads to negative perceptions and discrimination. Dwivedi et. al. (2022) found that this media relation with associating certain clothing styles is often a result of political agendas. However, not all media has been pacing up the discrimination, Latif et. al. (2021) argued that the digitalisation and the introduction of social media has resulted in the young individuals feeling empowered to choose their clothing and perceptualizing their social identity.
Figure 2: Is fashion finally addressing its diversity problem?, 2020
(Source: Raconteur, 2020)
According to Back, (2020), fashion has been widely recognised as the medium of self-expression and in the recent times have started to promote cultural identity and social inclusion. However, Sun, (2020), argues that the impact of fashion for promoting cultural identity often results in discrimination and stigmatisation. One of the theoretical frameworks which is widely used to understand the role of fashion to promote cultural identity is the symbolic interactionism. This perspective focuses on the role of symbols and significance in influencing the identity formation and social interaction (Meltzer et. al. 2020). Kaiser & Green, (2021) have applied this framework to analyse the use of clothing as a mean to promote social inclusion and express cultural identity. Furthermore, Qian et. al. (2020), have found that clothing often serves as a powerful symbol of identifying cultures and can facilitate the cross-cultural understandings and respect. Whereas Choi & Lewallen, (2018), argued that, although clothing acts as a symbol of cultural identity, it is often resonated as discriminatory perceptions and negative stereotypes.
Moreover, Studies have also focused on the significance of diversity and representation in the fashion industry for promoting social inclusion and identity. For example, Peñaloza, (2018), identified ethnic marketing as a concept to cater diverse consumers with different background. The study also shows that fashion companies embrace this approach by featuring models of different ethnicities in their marketing campaigns.
Furthermore, several initiatives were also developed to promote cultural identity and social inclusion through fashion. For example, the Fashion Minority Alliance was introduced to address the diversity and inclusion issue in the fashion industry (Fashion Minority Alliance, 2023). Despite these efforts, there are certain challenges such as cultural appropriation and exploitation from the commercialisation of cultural symbols. Kanai & Gill, (2020) has argued that cultural identities in fashion results in marginalisation of other groups, societies and cultures. Overall the literature suggests that fashion plays a significant role in promoting cultural identity and social inclusion, however, there is a need for a greater representation and diversity policies in the industry. These need to focus on the challenges and limitations such as cultural exploitation and marginalisation arises in order to successfully promote social inclusion and cultural identity.
According to Minhus & Huie, (2021), individuals and society as a whole finds pride and a source of comfort in wearing their traditional clothing and cultural clothing. This not only, helps the individuals to protect their culture but also to convey their social identity. However, for the fashion brands embracing culture is another source of revenue for them. There are several ways in which countries like the UK embrace their culture through fashion.
Liao, (2021) suggested that one of the most prominent ways for the fashion brands to embrace culture is by showcasing traditional clothing at fashion events and shows. For example, the London Fashion Week has continuously seen an increase in designers who indulge traditional elements into their designs (The Guardian, 2023). Moreover, this approach not only promotes cultural identity but also promotes inclusivity by including designers from diverse backgrounds.
Another way in which culture is embraced through fashion is the use of textile and fabrics associated with certain cultures. This approach is the most popular in street fashion where the designers have incorporated fabrics from different regions of the world including Africa (Garrin, & Marcketti, 2018). The use of these fabrics not only serves as a visual representation of cultural identity but also promotes social inclusion by embracing cultural differences.
Whereas, Devkota et. al. (2020), found that countries like UK embrace their culture through fashion by promoting cultural tourism as well. Promoting traditional clothing for tourists has helped to promote diverse culture and raise awareness. However, some concepts related to the relationship of fashion and culture create challenges for countries. The cultural appropriation is the act of leveraging elements of a certain culture and using them without permission (Lenard & Balint, 2020). This often results in the elements being based on a dominant group of people of the culture or a bias. This creates cultural biasness leading to negative stereotyping. Whereas, Jirousek, (2019) recommends that fashion brands should use cultural exchange to promote cultural identity and inclusion. The study defines cultural exchange as the use of cultural elements with mutual consent and respect.
Figure 3: You are what you wear: Symbolic relationships between products and identities, 2012
(Source: Seferin, 2012)
Although, the global fashion industry and especially the fashion industry of UK is embracing culture and promotes social identity through fashion, there are certain challenges and issues which impact this embracement. According to Brown & Vacca, (2022), one of the major challenges faced by the fashion industry is the lack of diversity and representation in fashion design and production. Although the industry has being more inclusive over the past few years, there is still a long way to go in terms of celebrating diversity and promoting inclusion. This can be observed in in the lack of diverse models on the runway, under representation of minority voices, and limited representation of ethnic cultures in fashion design (ManpowerGroup, 2023). However, the recent initiatives such as the diversity and inclusion campaigns by major fashion brands has contributed towards promoting diversity and inclusive beauty in fashion (Boyd et. al. 2020).
Moreover, the diverse and inclusive nature of the social media influencers and their emergence have also contributed towards the cause. Another challenge identified by Han, (2019), is the tension between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation. According to Howard, (2020), the difference between the both is a very thin line. Fashion brands open draw inspirations from cultures although it can result in cultural appropriation where the cultural elements are taken without proper recognition. This issue has been a major challenge for the fashion industry arguing that cultural appropriation results in harmful stereotypes (Gertner, 2019). However, the use of cultural exchange isn’t crucial aspect for cultural identity and can promote diversity.
Although the fashion industry of UK has seen a significant shift from a form of discrimination to a form of visible expression of social identity, the fashion industry faces challenges in promoting social identity as well (So et. al. 2018). The constant pressure of dominant beauty standards which marginalised communities is a challenge for the industry (Rabelo et. al. 2021). However, some fashion brands have started to challenge these standards by featuring and promoting body positivity.
Another challenge which impact the fashion industry while promoting social identity is the negative environmental impact (Niinimäki et. al. 2020). Especially the fast fashion brands like Zara and H&M have been contributing towards climate change and environmental degradation. This negative impact on the environment has resulted in and growing movement towards sustainable fashion which promotes recycling and upcycling (Nguyen et. al. 2021). In conclusion, the fashion industry faces several challenges in embracing culture and social identity however certain initiatives have shown potential in addressing these challenges.
Chapter 3 – Methodology and Research Ethics
Research Philosophy
Positivism is a research philosophy which focuses on the use of empirical evidence and scientific methods to study social phenomena (Park et. al. 2020). This type of philosophy assumes that there is an objective reality which can be observed and measured and that the researchers should aim to explain the casual relationships between variables (Pham, 2018). The research will use the positivism research philosophy in order to ensure objectivity, generalizability and reliability of the findings. Since the research is focused on the factors influencing the change in fashion culture in the UK, the positivism research philosophy will help in collecting qualitative data through standardised methods of data collection.
Research Approach
This research will adopt the deductive research approach for examining the factors contributing towards the shift in the fashion culture of the United Kingdom. The deductive approach involves developing a hypothesis and then testing it by using data analysis approaches (Pandey, 2019). The deductive approach is used in this research as it allows to test the research questions in a structured and objective manner. By using the deductive reasoning, different theories and patterns can be identified in the data by applying them to specific cases. This approach will also help in collecting and analysing data more efficiently to draw conclusions based on appropriate evidence.
Research Method
The research will use a combination of survey and case study methods to achieve the research objectives. The survey method is used to collect quantitative data about their perceptions and attitude towards the social inclusion and cultural identity in fashion (Perrier et. al. 2020). The case study method will be used to conduct an in-depth analysis of specific examples of how the fashion industry has successfully all done successfully embraced culture and promoted social identity through fashion. The use of both the methods will provide a comprehensive and detailed knowledge of the factors contributing to the stigmatisation of certain clothing styles and the role of fashion in promoting social identity.
Data Collection and analysis
The research will use a primary data collection method to gather relevant information on the shift in fashion culture of the UK. The primary data collection method is the method to collect data with the help of surveys, questionnaire and interviews. A questionnaire is developed and attached in the appendix below which will be used for interviewing industry professionals, consumers and other members of different social groups. The research will employ a thematic data analysis approach which involves identifying themes, patterns and trends in the data collected (Sharifi, 2022). This approach will enable the research to extract the meaning from the survey to provide insights into the factors contributing towards the cultural shift.
Time horizons
The research will take a Longitudinal time horizon. This time horizon is used to gather data over an extended period of time (PARK, 2022). This will allow the study to capture trends and changes in the phenomenon being investigated. By conducting the research over an extended period of time of 11 weeks, the study will be able to identify trends and patterns in the change in fashion culture of the UK fashion industry. This approach will allow the research to provide a comprehensive understanding of the research topic and identify changes and trends in the phenomena overtime and provide insights as to how fashion industry of UK can promote social identity through fashion.
Research Choices
The research will use a mixed method approach together both quantitative as well as qualitative data to provide an inclusive knowledge of the research problem (Westphaln et. al. 2021). The survey method will be used to collect the quantitative data by interviewing industry personnel and the qualitative data will be collected with the help of a case study on The United Kingdom embracing their culture through fashion. The mixed method approach of research uses both the qualitative as well as the quantitative data in order to gather a broad and wider perspective of the topic to draw conclusions and make recommendations.
Limitations
One of the limitations of the research is the potential for sampling bias, as the survey will be conducted within a specific group or participant who might not be able to represent a wider population. Another limitation of the research is the reliance on secondary data sources as the research follows a mixed method. This may have limitations in terms of reliability and validity. Moreover, the generalizability of the findings of the research may also be a limitation since the focus is on the UK and may not be applicable to other countries. Lastly, the researcher’s limited by the available time constraints which might impact the depth and scope of the Investigation.
Research Ethics
The research will follow all the ethical guidelines set by the Institutional Review Board and will ensure that the confidentiality and the privacy of the participants is protected. The informed consent will be obtained from the participants with the help of her research it takes form before their involvement in the study. The survey will also be kept confidential and anonymous and no personal information will be disclosed in the analysis of the data. The research will also ensure to avoid any plagiarism and will use sources published only after 2018 in order to maintain the reliability and viability of the research.
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